Prong setting is the most popular style of holding a diamond or colored stone. We use either four or six prongs to create a secure setting. Almost all diamonds are set in white prongs, some colored stones we use yellow prongs on. We find that 14 karat white gold prongs are durable and rigid creating a solid, intrinsically sound setting for your stone. White metal also does not impart any extra color into your stone.
Four-prong settings are very secure and allow the maximum amount of light to enter the diamond from all sides. It tends to make the stone look larger. You can have the stone set up as high or as low as you like provided the tip of the stone does not touch the finger.
Some people feel more secure with a six prong crown. It does look a little busier on the hand and covers a bit more of the stone but gives people who are rough on their jewelry a comfort level in case they do knock off a prong. With either four or six prongs, you should retip them or replace them every 5-7 years. We offer free ring inspection and cleaning as frequently as you like.
If you think that your stone might be loose or that a prong is lifted, bring it in for inspection. If lint is catching under a prong, it's another indication that a prong might be lifted. A simple test to hear if your stone is really loose is to hold the ring up to your ear and tap the side of the ring. You usually can hear a loose stone rattle in the setting. If you can hear it, or you are worried, take it off and bring it in. Our philosophy is, if you are at all concerned, bring it in, peace of mind is an inspection away.
Most prongs on a ring have a life span of approximately 5-7 years where they can be retipped, without unsetting the diamonds, to keep their inherent strength. Usually it's the outside prongs, by the pinkie finger that get the most wear. If one prong is worn down, the others are usually close behind.
A bezel is a ring of gold that covers the edges of the stone. There are half bezels which just frame two sides of the stone or full bezels encircling the entire stone. Bezels can be done in yellow or white gold. They do tend to make the stone look slightly smaller as they cover more of the stone. Also, because light cannot enter from the sides the stone may look less brilliant. A yellow bezel can add color to a diamond whereas the white will contrast a yellow diamond or keep a higher color diamond looking whiter.
Channel setting is usually done on a row of stones where a groove is cut into the mounting that the stone slides into, then metal is folded over two edges of the stone. The stones sit close to each other to give the appearance of a solid row of gems. We do channel set the center stone of an engagement ring, on occasion. It gives a clean, crisp look to the mounting.
This type of setting has a raised bar, on each side of the stone, that frames the stone. In an anniversary ring or mounting, two diamonds will share the same bar creating a clean contemporary look. The bars can be flat and angular or slightly domed and rounded.
Tension setting occurs when a round band is cut, stretched open, and grooved at the ends so the diamond is "snapped" into the metal. This type of mounting needs to be inherently strong and usually thick so that the ring does not bend or squeeze with normal wear.
Pave setting is the encrusted diamond look that makes a ring sparkle all over. It is done by taking a scoop of gold out of the mounting and rolling it onto the top of the stone. Many times two diamonds will share the same prong. Similar to this is a style called "bead set and bright cut" where a bead of gold is scooped over the diamond and the area next to the scoop is brightly polished to give the look of another stone. Sometimes the bright cuts are engraved to give a diamond like finish.
This type of setting is done in a mounting as opposed to a way to set the center diamond. Square or Princess Cut diamonds are used. The edges of the stones are grooved so the diamond can snap into a square brace that holds the stone. In this way the brace fits into the stones groove and is invisible. The diamonds can be set so they are touching giving a smooth face of diamonds.